| Because of both its cellar
longevity and its ability to maintain varietal identity
while reflecting the individuality of its terroir, Riesling
may be the best of all the white wine grapes. Its homeland
is Germany, where it has been cultivated since the 1400s
or earlier, and where it is made into wines that run the
gamut from bone dry and crisp quaffers to the complex,
unctuous nectars made from Botrytis-affected, shriveled
berries, individually late-picked, and known by the moniker
Trockenbeerenauslese. Sometimes
referred to as White, Rhine, or Johannisberg, the Riesling
name has been tarnished by the attachment of its name
to other white varietals (Grey Riesling--aka Chaucé
Gris--, Walschriesling--aka Italian Riesling--, and
Missouri Riesling) that are of far lesser quality and
genetically unrelated to the true Riesling. In Germany,
there are more than 60 selected Riesling clones available
to meet various flavor and growing condition criteria.
Riesling vines are particularly
hard-wooded and tolerant of cold weather and they bud
late, so are well-suited to the coldest wine-growing
climes. Riesling is both moderately vigorous and productive,
yielding from three to six tons per acre.
If dry conditions, however, follow
a single day of wet, Riesling grapes left on the vine
beyond normal ripeness can develop Edelfäule (Nobel
Rot). The result of this ugly but non-toxic mold, is
the shriveling of the grapes, the evaporation of much
of the juice, and the concentration of the sugar. These
wines have not only incredibly intense and concentrated
flavors, but also remarkable life span.
Hillside microclimates which
provide cool climates and at the same time plenty of
sun exposure, yet protection from the winds are of paramount
importance to quality Riesling. The best German vineyards
with these conditions on the Mosel River produce wines
that are unique in their low alcohol, powerful aroma,
and high extract.
Riesling has a powerful and distinctive
floral and apple-like aroma that frequently mixes in
mineral elements from its vineyard source and is often
described as "racy." Its high natural level
of Tartaric acid enables it to balance even high levels
of residual sugar. The light, delicately sweet flavor
of simple pan-fried-in-butter trout is especially good
with Riesling. On the other hand, grilled or sautéed
sausage, with its range from savory to spicy, also works
well with this varietal. As with most foods, spices
and sauce should be the factors that determine the wine
match, rather than the color of the meat. |